Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Thursday, January 14, 2010
For the Love of Florida
I'm out of the loop quite often, but in my boredom-induced internet bumbling, I have learned that one of the new designers on Project Runway is from my neck of the woods!
Ben Chmura apparently resides in Tampa, and won a Best of the Bay award a few years ago. His name sounded familiar, and I'm awaiting a response from my sister to see if she knows him. If anyone knows anyone in Tampa it's her. I live nearly an hour and a half away from her, and I still have people that ask if I know Erica Heiden. Its kind of disconcerting to have people ask which fabrics are suitable for dance costumes in the same sentence that they inquire about the members of my family...
Anyways, I'm excited to see what this chap has to offer. He's a transplant, originally a New-Englander, so I'm a bit worried on how he plans to represent MY Florida.
I HATE the fact that when most people think of Florida fashion, they instantly go to flamingo pinks and mint greens, oversized button-down shirts and strawhats, and old people. Yes, that is what makes Florida appear so appealing to the rest of the nation, which is apparently made up of only wheat and corn, (I'm lookin at you Nebraska!) or sleet and disdain. (Seattle, anyone?)
I blame Hemingway. As the holder of a degree in English, I am required by law to love him, whether I like it or not. But he ruined my state! He turned Florida into Key West! It's not all beaches and bars here. I would much rather have Zora Neale Hurston's view on the land be the authority.
When I see My Florida in my head, I see the muted colors of the buildings where cement was mixed with sand. I see palmetto green flora and amethyst clouds. I see the mahogany branches of the mangroves and the still, black water shimmering on an alligator's nose. And nowhere in sight are there mouse-ears or t-shirts that say "Hog's breath is better than no breath at all."
Natural Florida is a force to be reconed with. If you've ever seen the plant life, you know how hardcore it is. Grass is not natural here. All the lush lawns you see were brought here from other places and need special conditions just to survive against our badass plants. Look at sawgrass! Let's see your pretty lawn fight off that mofo! Plantlife here has evolved in many crazy ways to survive the climate. Most are just green, with no flowers, and rigid, sharp edges. Sometimes I wonder what the Spanish were thinking when they called this place "land of the flowers"
The plants are all such vicious contenders in the botany world, that they can't even fight each other, and when they get overgrown, we have to burn them all down! It's called prescribed burning. That's why Smokey the Bear now says "Only you can prevent wildfires!" instead of "forrest fires". Cause our forrests deserve it when they wont play nice.
And before you freak out and say prescribed burning is unnatural and detrimental, just know that there are a lot of thunderstorms here for a reason. Tampa is the lightning capital of the western hemisphere (apparently Nepal is the world capital), and when people don't set those fires, nature sets them herself. She gave us the idea.
The people who live here, too, have to be pretty hardcore just to survive. The majority of the state was originally swampland, and had to be worked and drained to make it liveable. There are still large areas that are uninhabitable. And the weather is pretty unique. Hot and humid. Not only are you hot, but YOU CAN'T SWEAT na-na-na-boo-boo!
I went to Vegas on my honeymoon. In August. So I know NOW that Florida is not nearly as bad as it gets when it comes to heat. Let it be known that I DID pass out after a short walk from the Venetian to Caesar's Palace. You can't sweat there either folks. It evaporates before it even gets out of your skin!
If I were to ever given the chance to reinstate Florida fashion, I would take inspiration from the rugged swamp, and make all my fabrics out of linen, rayon, cotton and bamboo. Light stuff designed for hot, sticky weather. I would do away with the Key West/ South Beach air, embroidered souvenier t-shirts, and maxi dresses. I will allow the flip-flop as long as it is tastefully done. None of this plastic B.S.
I just hope this snowbird on Project Runway dosen't taint my state's already bad name. Represent, my homie! Please, please, represent.
Ben Chmura apparently resides in Tampa, and won a Best of the Bay award a few years ago. His name sounded familiar, and I'm awaiting a response from my sister to see if she knows him. If anyone knows anyone in Tampa it's her. I live nearly an hour and a half away from her, and I still have people that ask if I know Erica Heiden. Its kind of disconcerting to have people ask which fabrics are suitable for dance costumes in the same sentence that they inquire about the members of my family...
Anyways, I'm excited to see what this chap has to offer. He's a transplant, originally a New-Englander, so I'm a bit worried on how he plans to represent MY Florida.
I HATE the fact that when most people think of Florida fashion, they instantly go to flamingo pinks and mint greens, oversized button-down shirts and strawhats, and old people. Yes, that is what makes Florida appear so appealing to the rest of the nation, which is apparently made up of only wheat and corn, (I'm lookin at you Nebraska!) or sleet and disdain. (Seattle, anyone?)
I blame Hemingway. As the holder of a degree in English, I am required by law to love him, whether I like it or not. But he ruined my state! He turned Florida into Key West! It's not all beaches and bars here. I would much rather have Zora Neale Hurston's view on the land be the authority.
When I see My Florida in my head, I see the muted colors of the buildings where cement was mixed with sand. I see palmetto green flora and amethyst clouds. I see the mahogany branches of the mangroves and the still, black water shimmering on an alligator's nose. And nowhere in sight are there mouse-ears or t-shirts that say "Hog's breath is better than no breath at all."
Natural Florida is a force to be reconed with. If you've ever seen the plant life, you know how hardcore it is. Grass is not natural here. All the lush lawns you see were brought here from other places and need special conditions just to survive against our badass plants. Look at sawgrass! Let's see your pretty lawn fight off that mofo! Plantlife here has evolved in many crazy ways to survive the climate. Most are just green, with no flowers, and rigid, sharp edges. Sometimes I wonder what the Spanish were thinking when they called this place "land of the flowers"
The plants are all such vicious contenders in the botany world, that they can't even fight each other, and when they get overgrown, we have to burn them all down! It's called prescribed burning. That's why Smokey the Bear now says "Only you can prevent wildfires!" instead of "forrest fires". Cause our forrests deserve it when they wont play nice.
And before you freak out and say prescribed burning is unnatural and detrimental, just know that there are a lot of thunderstorms here for a reason. Tampa is the lightning capital of the western hemisphere (apparently Nepal is the world capital), and when people don't set those fires, nature sets them herself. She gave us the idea.
The people who live here, too, have to be pretty hardcore just to survive. The majority of the state was originally swampland, and had to be worked and drained to make it liveable. There are still large areas that are uninhabitable. And the weather is pretty unique. Hot and humid. Not only are you hot, but YOU CAN'T SWEAT na-na-na-boo-boo!
I went to Vegas on my honeymoon. In August. So I know NOW that Florida is not nearly as bad as it gets when it comes to heat. Let it be known that I DID pass out after a short walk from the Venetian to Caesar's Palace. You can't sweat there either folks. It evaporates before it even gets out of your skin!
If I were to ever given the chance to reinstate Florida fashion, I would take inspiration from the rugged swamp, and make all my fabrics out of linen, rayon, cotton and bamboo. Light stuff designed for hot, sticky weather. I would do away with the Key West/ South Beach air, embroidered souvenier t-shirts, and maxi dresses. I will allow the flip-flop as long as it is tastefully done. None of this plastic B.S.
I just hope this snowbird on Project Runway dosen't taint my state's already bad name. Represent, my homie! Please, please, represent.
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Trying is the First Step Toward Failure...
Hopefully by now most of you have gained enough confidence in yourselves to try out a project or two. If you have, GOOD JOB! I’m proud of you! *hug*
If not, we’ve got more work to do.
One of the hardest lessons of life to learn is the acceptance of failure. I KNOW that those of you out there who are too afraid to start a project, probably also got all A’s in school. You’re probably very critical of yourself. You dress well, speak clearly, and keep the public parts of your house very well kept. But when you screw up, you are your worst enemy.
That’s just because you’ve never successfully learned to fail! And no, don’t go blame this on Mommy and Daddy or your first grade teacher (that poor homely woman has enough problems to deal with without your cosmic hatred). This is your chance to take responsibility, and learn to FAIL LIKE A PRO!!!
This is tough, but once you figure out how to royally screw up a project and survive, sewing, and on a more existential plane, life, will become SO much easier.
Now I’m not saying go out and buy 10 yards of fine silk and set it aflame in a symbolic tribute to nihilism. I mean, make something, and if you can’t fix it, give it to charity. They love that stuff!
When I first started sewing, my biggest irrational fear was interfacing. I didn’t know what it was, how to use it, what purpose it served, and I was much happier just staying away from it.
This was also several years ago when I had JUST started working for the fabric store I currently work for. This was also around the time I told a customer that there was no such thing as “charmeuse” and she had probably made it up. After several embarrassing situations like the charmeuse incident and my stuttering responses to questions about interfacing, I decided to face the beast, and make something with this crazy crap.
Since then, I have learned a bit about it, but not as much as I would like to. Even the almighty internet doesn’t have a great understanding of it’s specifics. One of the problems of info on sewing, I think, is that all the hardcore gurus that can tell you
anything you want on sewing, are all older and not too computer savvy. Just my theory. I know there are someGrandmas who can rock a mouse like nobody’s business. Nothing personal. The ones I’ve found that are internet friendly are not too keen on my generation.There videos and webpages are filled with comforting images of teddy bears and doilies, and their words are spoken in a soothing motherly tone. After watching these vlogs, I am not inspired to sew, but rather to find this lady's house so she can bake me cookies and crochet cozy afghans for me while I watch reruns of Ducktales cartoons from the comfort of her overstuffed couch. This is unacceptable. I need bright colors and electronic music! and I need all my information in 140 character bites! Where are the blasé twenty-somethings with peppy buzz words? Threadbanger, you have spoiled me!
I go off on too many tangents. Here’s what you want to know.
There are two main categories of interfacing: Fusible and Non- Fusible (sew-in)
Fusible just means that one or both sides are coated with a heat-activated adhesive. When you iron a fabric to the adhesive side, it bonds with it and adds extra body to said fabric.
Non- Fusible does not have this adhesive, and needs to be sewn to the fabric. This is usually best to use on very delicate fabrics, or fabrics that can’t be ironed/ take a lot of heat, such as most silks and acetate taffeta.
I’ve found that fusible works best on fabrics that are woven and made primarily of natural fibers. It’s hard to get the adhesive to stick to polyester. Sometimes I add an extra layer of just the fusing (I.e. wonder under, heat n’ bond, stitch witchery, etc) to get it to stick.
When applying fusible interfacing, the instructions say to set your iron’s heat to the highest that the fabric can handle. Say, if your using it on linen, turn the heat all the way up. If you’re using it on wool, keep it a little cooler. If your fabric is a blend, go with the weaker fabric. Like for a cotton-poly blend, set the iron to polyester heat.
Also set your iron to steam, if the fabric can handle it. (Always pre-wash your fabrics anyway!) My crappy little iron doesn’t have a steam option, so I keep a spray bottle of water close by. The extra amount of water helps to super-reinforce areas that don’t fuse as readily as I’d like them too. And it keeps the cat away.
When it comes to the weight, you generally want the interfacing to behave the same way as the fabric. (There are a few exceptions to that rule.) If your fabric is light, like charmeuse or peachskin, use a lightweight interfacing. If your fabric is heavy, like a denim or canvas, use a heavyweight interfacing. Most of the time you can use the standard non-woven stuff, but if you want the end result to have more flexibility, maybe try a woven or a knit interfacing. Because of the increased flexibility though, the fusing may come off over time.
Exceptions to the rule are based on common sense. Say you find a cute cotton fabric you want to make into a tote-bag. Of course you would want to use a heavy-weight interfacing to make it stand up. One of my friends says she uses décor-bond for her bags, but when I tried it I thought it felt like it had posterboard inside it. My personal favorite to use is Pellon’s shirt tailor, but sometimes that’s hard to find.
Or if you’re making a t-shirt quilt, you would probably want to back the t-shirt pieces with some lightweight fusible interfacing, instead of the knit interfacing. The t-shirt fabrics are all different, and some will stretch more than others. using the lightweight fusible interfacing keeps them from stretching, so the quilt wont get all wonky.
Even with all these generalizations, trial and error is still necessary. Don’t be afraid to try out a variety of interfacings in your projects, or maybe get a sample of each and try them all out on a scrap. Or maybe, if you feel so bold, ASK the salesperson about interfacing! *GASP!*
So my little chicklets, don’t be afraid to mess up something. You will not die, the fabric will not explode, and the bully from fourth grade will not suddenly enter your house to point and laugh at you. He’s already in jail for doing that to someone else. Seriously, what was his problem? That kid needed more hugs...
The worst that will happen from failing is that you might need to buy more fabric (but who doesn’t like doing that?) and that you might learn something. Remember, even Ralph Lauren didn’t know how to sew on a button at some point.
So, Sew a zipper in the bottom of your skirt? Old news. Drop your iron on your mother’s brand-new rug and burn a hole in it? Nothing new. Sew through your finger? Done it (It makes a great battle scar!)
And just to make things more interesting, maybe post in the comments or email me a story of your favorite fail moment. Sewing has been around since about 30,000 B.C. So don’t worry, whatever you did has probably been done before. By a caveman nonetheless.
If not, we’ve got more work to do.
One of the hardest lessons of life to learn is the acceptance of failure. I KNOW that those of you out there who are too afraid to start a project, probably also got all A’s in school. You’re probably very critical of yourself. You dress well, speak clearly, and keep the public parts of your house very well kept. But when you screw up, you are your worst enemy.
That’s just because you’ve never successfully learned to fail! And no, don’t go blame this on Mommy and Daddy or your first grade teacher (that poor homely woman has enough problems to deal with without your cosmic hatred). This is your chance to take responsibility, and learn to FAIL LIKE A PRO!!!
This is tough, but once you figure out how to royally screw up a project and survive, sewing, and on a more existential plane, life, will become SO much easier.
When I first started sewing, my biggest irrational fear was interfacing. I didn’t know what it was, how to use it, what purpose it served, and I was much happier just staying away from it.
This was also several years ago when I had JUST started working for the fabric store I currently work for. This was also around the time I told a customer that there was no such thing as “charmeuse” and she had probably made it up. After several embarrassing situations like the charmeuse incident and my stuttering responses to questions about interfacing, I decided to face the beast, and make something with this crazy crap.
Since then, I have learned a bit about it, but not as much as I would like to. Even the almighty internet doesn’t have a great understanding of it’s specifics. One of the problems of info on sewing, I think, is that all the hardcore gurus that can tell you
anything you want on sewing, are all older and not too computer savvy. Just my theory. I know there are someGrandmas who can rock a mouse like nobody’s business. Nothing personal. The ones I’ve found that are internet friendly are not too keen on my generation.There videos and webpages are filled with comforting images of teddy bears and doilies, and their words are spoken in a soothing motherly tone. After watching these vlogs, I am not inspired to sew, but rather to find this lady's house so she can bake me cookies and crochet cozy afghans for me while I watch reruns of Ducktales cartoons from the comfort of her overstuffed couch. This is unacceptable. I need bright colors and electronic music! and I need all my information in 140 character bites! Where are the blasé twenty-somethings with peppy buzz words? Threadbanger, you have spoiled me!
I go off on too many tangents. Here’s what you want to know.
There are two main categories of interfacing: Fusible and Non- Fusible (sew-in)
Fusible just means that one or both sides are coated with a heat-activated adhesive. When you iron a fabric to the adhesive side, it bonds with it and adds extra body to said fabric.
Non- Fusible does not have this adhesive, and needs to be sewn to the fabric. This is usually best to use on very delicate fabrics, or fabrics that can’t be ironed/ take a lot of heat, such as most silks and acetate taffeta.
I’ve found that fusible works best on fabrics that are woven and made primarily of natural fibers. It’s hard to get the adhesive to stick to polyester. Sometimes I add an extra layer of just the fusing (I.e. wonder under, heat n’ bond, stitch witchery, etc) to get it to stick.
When applying fusible interfacing, the instructions say to set your iron’s heat to the highest that the fabric can handle. Say, if your using it on linen, turn the heat all the way up. If you’re using it on wool, keep it a little cooler. If your fabric is a blend, go with the weaker fabric. Like for a cotton-poly blend, set the iron to polyester heat.
Also set your iron to steam, if the fabric can handle it. (Always pre-wash your fabrics anyway!) My crappy little iron doesn’t have a steam option, so I keep a spray bottle of water close by. The extra amount of water helps to super-reinforce areas that don’t fuse as readily as I’d like them too. And it keeps the cat away.
When it comes to the weight, you generally want the interfacing to behave the same way as the fabric. (There are a few exceptions to that rule.) If your fabric is light, like charmeuse or peachskin, use a lightweight interfacing. If your fabric is heavy, like a denim or canvas, use a heavyweight interfacing. Most of the time you can use the standard non-woven stuff, but if you want the end result to have more flexibility, maybe try a woven or a knit interfacing. Because of the increased flexibility though, the fusing may come off over time.
Exceptions to the rule are based on common sense. Say you find a cute cotton fabric you want to make into a tote-bag. Of course you would want to use a heavy-weight interfacing to make it stand up. One of my friends says she uses décor-bond for her bags, but when I tried it I thought it felt like it had posterboard inside it. My personal favorite to use is Pellon’s shirt tailor, but sometimes that’s hard to find.
Or if you’re making a t-shirt quilt, you would probably want to back the t-shirt pieces with some lightweight fusible interfacing, instead of the knit interfacing. The t-shirt fabrics are all different, and some will stretch more than others. using the lightweight fusible interfacing keeps them from stretching, so the quilt wont get all wonky.
Even with all these generalizations, trial and error is still necessary. Don’t be afraid to try out a variety of interfacings in your projects, or maybe get a sample of each and try them all out on a scrap. Or maybe, if you feel so bold, ASK the salesperson about interfacing! *GASP!*
So my little chicklets, don’t be afraid to mess up something. You will not die, the fabric will not explode, and the bully from fourth grade will not suddenly enter your house to point and laugh at you. He’s already in jail for doing that to someone else. Seriously, what was his problem? That kid needed more hugs...
The worst that will happen from failing is that you might need to buy more fabric (but who doesn’t like doing that?) and that you might learn something. Remember, even Ralph Lauren didn’t know how to sew on a button at some point.
So, Sew a zipper in the bottom of your skirt? Old news. Drop your iron on your mother’s brand-new rug and burn a hole in it? Nothing new. Sew through your finger? Done it (It makes a great battle scar!)
And just to make things more interesting, maybe post in the comments or email me a story of your favorite fail moment. Sewing has been around since about 30,000 B.C. So don’t worry, whatever you did has probably been done before. By a caveman nonetheless.
See? Even he has a cape!
Saturday, January 2, 2010
The wait is over. The headache is now.
IT'S
FINALLY
FINISHED.
I appreciate your patience, my little ducklings. Please forgive the excessive wait and my hyperactive facial expressions. The filming part is easy. The hard part is the editing. I was up until six this morning trying to tweak the audio so that you could actually hear it over my normally quiet sewing machine. But I have two more videos filmed, I just cant promise when I will get them up.
I'm gonna take a hard nap. As always, feel free to comment or ask questions!
FINALLY
FINISHED.
I appreciate your patience, my little ducklings. Please forgive the excessive wait and my hyperactive facial expressions. The filming part is easy. The hard part is the editing. I was up until six this morning trying to tweak the audio so that you could actually hear it over my normally quiet sewing machine. But I have two more videos filmed, I just cant promise when I will get them up.
I'm gonna take a hard nap. As always, feel free to comment or ask questions!
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Q & A session!
How does one effectively work with very ravelly materials (brocade, etc) without going completely batty? :) And this may go along with the tote bag post, but....straps. How can we attach them that they'll stay attached and not rip out when the bag is actually USED?
-KMay
KMay-
First let me say that I do NOT suggest using brocades or satins for projects if you are just starting out. These fabrics require a lot of care, energy and patience.
If you do decide to tackle this ravelly beast, however, it's best to use a SHARP size 10/70 needle or smaller, and satin pins. Brocade and satin scar very easily, so if you mess up your stitch and use a seam ripper to start again, you'll still have the holes where the needle first went in. Be very patient, you may have to trim away the frayed edges frequently, and use a larger seam allowance.
Where the edges fray, you have a few options. You can try using a special product made to reduce fraying, like No-Fray or Fray-Check. Trim away the frays and then run it along the edges and let it dry.
If you have one of the cheap brocades, like the ones they sell at JoAnns or Wal-Mart, and it's made of polyester or nylon, you can also try (MY HUSBAND IS A LAWYER) burning it. You can run a lighter along the edges until the frays curl up and melt. I assume no responsibility if you damage your fabric, burn yourself, or burn your house or anything else down.
Most of the cheap brocades can also be machine washed. Use the delicate cycle with cold water, and then hang it up to dry. You can iron them on cool, and I've even successfully used fusible interfacing on one.
Fray-checking it and burning it will make the edges feel "crunchy." In my opinion, the best way to work with it is to press and hem the edges. It keeps the edges soft and flexible.
If somehow you got your hands on a REAL silk brocade, dry clean only all the way.
As for the totebag straps, I make an X in a box where I attatch the handles. The totebag tutorial is coming along, but I'm new to using a video camera and all the movie making technology, and my husband keeps forgetting to teach me how to use it. I am, however, a MASTER when it comes to MS Paint! BEHOLD!
Love your blog so far - really helpful to an avid sewer but a bit of a newbie. I find fabric shops simultaneously candy-shop-exciting and overwhelming! What's your opinion on the best choice of fabrics to have in your stash? I mainly work with freebies and old clothes (currently too skint to buy much new) so it's usually a mix of jersey, stretchy knit, linen and denim, all seamed together (obviously, as they're old clothes!) leaving me with small pieces of fabric which I usually turn into children's clothes. I'm trying to build up a stash (at the moment it consists of some brown corduroy and some black jersey!) but go blank when I walk in a shop as to what I'm planning on making and what I need.... Wow, big ramble.
Skippedy-
I never thought I would be asked to give advice on which kind of fabric to hoarde. How about all of it?
It really depends on what kinds of projects you like to do. If you make a lot of crafts, like quilts, toys or home accessories (i.e. potholders) any kind of plain woven cotton is good to keep around. I myself am a sucker for cutesy prints, and if you're like me, it might be wise to buy a solid color that corresponds at the same time, so when you're ready to make that adorable apron or that convenient casserole cover, you dont get stuck looking for something that you could use for the accents. Cotton also is great for baby clothes, which you mentioned that you make already. Kids can pull off alot of those cute motifs.
If you make a lot of street clothes, I think it's good to stock up on the jersey/ interlock and bottomweight fabrics (denim, twill, anything that feels like pants). again, I think its good to have a stash of basic colors (black, white, tan, red and navy) So when you find a fabric you can't live without, you have something to accent it.
If you make a lot of suits or work clothes, again go for the plain cotton for shirts, but look for one with a higher quality or thread count. Most stores have a section specifically for suit fabric (jacket, skirt, dress pants, whatev). Charmeuse and chiffons make for great blouses, if you feel confident enough to sew with those fabrics. They are pretty tricky for the newbie seamstress.
If you make dresses, like cocktail dresses or fancy stuff, satins, taffetas, velvets, chiffons, and sheers are all good to have around. These ones are a little too intimidating to me though. I only get them if they are on sale or I have a project in mind.
If your bag is in home decor, don't keep a stash. That fabric is too expensive to just have lying around.
Regardless, I think it's always a good idea to keep a stash of muslin, different kinds and weights of interfacing, basic colors of lining, and elastic. Notions usually end up being more useful to have around than extra fabric, even though buying fabric is the most fun. :)
I hope this helps. Whenever I buy fabric, I get a cart and fill it up with stuff I like, and then when I get to the cutting counter, I weed out the ones that I can live without and just get the ones that I NEED. Everyone is different though.
My totebag tutorial should be up in about a week. Still trying to figure out how to use the camcorder.
-KMay
First let me say that I do NOT suggest using brocades or satins for projects if you are just starting out. These fabrics require a lot of care, energy and patience.
If you do decide to tackle this ravelly beast, however, it's best to use a SHARP size 10/70 needle or smaller, and satin pins. Brocade and satin scar very easily, so if you mess up your stitch and use a seam ripper to start again, you'll still have the holes where the needle first went in. Be very patient, you may have to trim away the frayed edges frequently, and use a larger seam allowance.
Where the edges fray, you have a few options. You can try using a special product made to reduce fraying, like No-Fray or Fray-Check. Trim away the frays and then run it along the edges and let it dry.
If you have one of the cheap brocades, like the ones they sell at JoAnns or Wal-Mart, and it's made of polyester or nylon, you can also try (MY HUSBAND IS A LAWYER) burning it. You can run a lighter along the edges until the frays curl up and melt. I assume no responsibility if you damage your fabric, burn yourself, or burn your house or anything else down.
Most of the cheap brocades can also be machine washed. Use the delicate cycle with cold water, and then hang it up to dry. You can iron them on cool, and I've even successfully used fusible interfacing on one.
Fray-checking it and burning it will make the edges feel "crunchy." In my opinion, the best way to work with it is to press and hem the edges. It keeps the edges soft and flexible.
If somehow you got your hands on a REAL silk brocade, dry clean only all the way.
As for the totebag straps, I make an X in a box where I attatch the handles. The totebag tutorial is coming along, but I'm new to using a video camera and all the movie making technology, and my husband keeps forgetting to teach me how to use it. I am, however, a MASTER when it comes to MS Paint! BEHOLD!
Love your blog so far - really helpful to an avid sewer but a bit of a newbie. I find fabric shops simultaneously candy-shop-exciting and overwhelming! What's your opinion on the best choice of fabrics to have in your stash? I mainly work with freebies and old clothes (currently too skint to buy much new) so it's usually a mix of jersey, stretchy knit, linen and denim, all seamed together (obviously, as they're old clothes!) leaving me with small pieces of fabric which I usually turn into children's clothes. I'm trying to build up a stash (at the moment it consists of some brown corduroy and some black jersey!) but go blank when I walk in a shop as to what I'm planning on making and what I need.... Wow, big ramble.
-Skippedydoodah
Skippedy-
I never thought I would be asked to give advice on which kind of fabric to hoarde. How about all of it?
It really depends on what kinds of projects you like to do. If you make a lot of crafts, like quilts, toys or home accessories (i.e. potholders) any kind of plain woven cotton is good to keep around. I myself am a sucker for cutesy prints, and if you're like me, it might be wise to buy a solid color that corresponds at the same time, so when you're ready to make that adorable apron or that convenient casserole cover, you dont get stuck looking for something that you could use for the accents. Cotton also is great for baby clothes, which you mentioned that you make already. Kids can pull off alot of those cute motifs.
If you make a lot of street clothes, I think it's good to stock up on the jersey/ interlock and bottomweight fabrics (denim, twill, anything that feels like pants). again, I think its good to have a stash of basic colors (black, white, tan, red and navy) So when you find a fabric you can't live without, you have something to accent it.
If you make a lot of suits or work clothes, again go for the plain cotton for shirts, but look for one with a higher quality or thread count. Most stores have a section specifically for suit fabric (jacket, skirt, dress pants, whatev). Charmeuse and chiffons make for great blouses, if you feel confident enough to sew with those fabrics. They are pretty tricky for the newbie seamstress.
If you make dresses, like cocktail dresses or fancy stuff, satins, taffetas, velvets, chiffons, and sheers are all good to have around. These ones are a little too intimidating to me though. I only get them if they are on sale or I have a project in mind.
If your bag is in home decor, don't keep a stash. That fabric is too expensive to just have lying around.
Regardless, I think it's always a good idea to keep a stash of muslin, different kinds and weights of interfacing, basic colors of lining, and elastic. Notions usually end up being more useful to have around than extra fabric, even though buying fabric is the most fun. :)
I hope this helps. Whenever I buy fabric, I get a cart and fill it up with stuff I like, and then when I get to the cutting counter, I weed out the ones that I can live without and just get the ones that I NEED. Everyone is different though.
My totebag tutorial should be up in about a week. Still trying to figure out how to use the camcorder.
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Still Alive
I feel like it's been a long time since I've posted anything (OMG 13 days!), but I want to assure the five people who actually read this blog (including my dad.) that I am still here. I'm working two jobs and helping my husband survive law school, so I don't get much spare time, and in that time I'm practicing sewing and trying to get better so I can help anyone who needs it. So don't fret my ducklings, I'm coming up with something.
You could help me help you by asking me questions! I was planning on having an entry on how to make a quick totebag, and then one to explain interfacing a little better. But if there are other questions in your noggin about things like buttons, zippers, how much fabric you need to cover a dining room chair, please ask and I will answer!
P.S. you can cover two chairs with three-quarters of a yard of 45" or bigger.
You could help me help you by asking me questions! I was planning on having an entry on how to make a quick totebag, and then one to explain interfacing a little better. But if there are other questions in your noggin about things like buttons, zippers, how much fabric you need to cover a dining room chair, please ask and I will answer!
P.S. you can cover two chairs with three-quarters of a yard of 45" or bigger.
Friday, November 6, 2009
Drowning in a Sea of Polyester.
I always think it’s hilarious when people walk into the store and ask “Where is your polyester?”
I extend my arms in a grandiose way and proclaim, “YOU ARE SURROUNDED!”
Polyester has come a long way since the 70’s (I assume). Its not just a psychedelic stretchy fabric to make disco suits. It, like many other fibers, is a chameleon.
It’s difficult for many people to distinguish fiber from fabric. Especially when a good portion of the fabric store identifies itself as just “plain cotton.” Most clothing tags will tell you what sort of fiber your clothes are made of, but every once in a while they’ll mix it up by saying “100% cotton sateen” or “cotton poplin.” How is anyone supposed to figure out anything?
Even Wikipedia is sparse when it comes to fabric/ fiber identification. I wanted to find a list of synthetic fibers… not there. If you already know the name of the fabric, you might be able to find some information on it, but you’re probably setting your self up for some sort of goose chase. Most likely the wild kind.
So, with my general knowledge, and what I could scrape together from the internet, I present a basic understanding of fibers and fabrics.
First off, there are three basic categories of fibers: Natural, Artificial and Synthetic.
Natural fibers can be further categorized into animal or vegetable fibers.
Animal fibers include:
Wool (fleece or hair from animals, primarily sheep)
Silk (produced by the silk worm)
Vegetable fibers are usually from plants of the same name. Like:
Cotton
Bamboo
Hemp
Jute
Linen (flax)
Natural fibers are usually the most prized, though most cotton is pretty cheap, I guess cause its so easy to cultivate. They have great breathability, drape well, and look classier than other fibers. When set on fire they burn to ash. They are biodegradable, and can be organically made. The drawbacks to them are that they shrink, wrinkle easily, and generally require a bit more attention and care. (A.k.a. dry cleaning).
Artificial Fibers are chemically altered versions of natural fibers. (At work I call them Frankenstein fibers.) They usually imitate the look and feel of natural fibers, but aren’t as durable. The first artificial fiber was created in the late 1800s. The list includes:
Viscose
Rayon
Acetate
Modal
Tencel
There are a lot more, but these are the only ones I’ve seen in abundance. These fabrics breathe well, drape well, but like I said before, aren’t as strong or elastic as naturals. They don’t retain heat, so they’re nice here in sunny Fla, but I’ve had some customers complain that they “cling” to their bodies (Showing off unwanted panty lines.)
Synthetic fibers are probably the most versatile and inexpensive fibers on the market. Nylon was the first ever synthetic fiber manufactured. It was born in the United States in the 1930s (U-S-A! U-S-A!) Followers include, but are not limited to:
Polyester
Nylon
Acrylic
Olefin
Spandex
Synthetics are all manufactured to behave differently, so there aren’t really many set characteristics. However they typically don’t shrink, they are wrinkle and wear resistant, they retain heat and don’t breathe well, and they either melt when burned, or don’t burn at all. The ones that melt can be handy sometimes, because, you can run a lighter along the edge to keep the fabric from fraying. (Disclaimer: my husband is a lawyer, so if you burn yourself doing that, don’t sue me!) But burn at your own risk! Like an anonymous poster mentioned to one of my earlier posts, synthetic fabrics can cause severe burns if you get caught on fire while wearing them, because they melt onto your skin and trap heat until they are surgically removed. This just reinforces one of my strong beliefs that you should BE CAREFUL AROUND FIRE!
To make things even more confusing, these fibers can be woven, knitted, or compressed into different types of cloths. This is what determines how fabrics are sorted in the stores.
The most popular type of fabric is woven. this is when the fibers are spun into “yarns” and are woven over and under each other, like a basket. The warp and the weft are the two main directions the yarns go.

The warp goes lengthwise, (and determines how many yards you’re getting). it also decides the grain line. The weft goes widthwise, and usually has more stretch than the warp. It also creates the selvege of the fabric.
There are three types of woven fabrics: plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave.
Plain weave is just that. over under over under. common fabrics include taffeta, plain cotton, chiffon, organza, poplin, lame, seersucker, batiste, chambray, flannel, corduroy, etc. If the fabric makes little crosses, it’s a plain weave.
Twill weave is made from skipping a few warp/weft fibers. The yarns make a diagonal pattern. Fabrics with twill weave include denim, twill, chino, drill cloth, tweed and gabardine.
(Fun fact: gabardine was invented by the guy who founded Burberry)
Satin weaves make a shiny looking fabric, by putting more warp fibers over more weft fibers. The only satin weave fabrics I’m really familiar with are satin and charmeuse. If a cotton fabric has a satin weave, for some reason it’s called sateen.
There are some special weaves that make fabrics like brocades and jacquards, something about shuttle weaving, where they weave the fabric and then create a secondary design. Then there are special techniques used to make velvet and tapestry, but I’m not too familiar with them. The important thing to know about these special fabrics is that in most situations they are VERY delicate, and need special care when working with them.
Knits are another very common fabric, mostly used to make sportswear and street wear. Knits have stretch without needing spandex. I think knits are good for beginners because even if you mess up a little bit, they will stretch over your body and disguise most flaws. There are several different techniques. I know some, but if you want to get a better idea of different kinds, ask someone who knits or crochets.
Interlock is most commonly used for t-shirts. Ribbed knit is what most t-shirts have on the collar and the cuffs.
Double knit fabrics, like ponte, aren’t as stretchy, but they are durable. I think this is the fabric most polo shirts are made of.
Tricot (tree-co) is an interesting knit, because it uses three strands of yarn to create a triangular shaped knit. I’ve only seen it as cheap Halloween knits. they’re hella stretchy, but will break whatever screen print is on it.
Non-woven fabrics are made by compressing and heating a tangled mess of fibers until they fuse. Fleece and felt are the two primary forms of non-woven fabric, but it does appear in many forms. Like American currency! Dollars are made from a blend of cotton and linen, which is why they last so long, even after getting crumpled and soaked.
Hopefully this is helpful, even with my limited formal education on fabric. The best way to learn more about it is to touch it. Feel it, move it, wrap it around your arm to test it’s breathability. Get acquainted. Also, don’t be afraid to ask questions about it. Most of the people who work at the store would love to help you. If they don’t, find someone else. Fabric is a niche market. Most people who work in the store work there because they are interested in it and would love to show you just how smart they are.
Go forth and sew!
I extend my arms in a grandiose way and proclaim, “YOU ARE SURROUNDED!”
Polyester has come a long way since the 70’s (I assume). Its not just a psychedelic stretchy fabric to make disco suits. It, like many other fibers, is a chameleon.
It’s difficult for many people to distinguish fiber from fabric. Especially when a good portion of the fabric store identifies itself as just “plain cotton.” Most clothing tags will tell you what sort of fiber your clothes are made of, but every once in a while they’ll mix it up by saying “100% cotton sateen” or “cotton poplin.” How is anyone supposed to figure out anything?
Even Wikipedia is sparse when it comes to fabric/ fiber identification. I wanted to find a list of synthetic fibers… not there. If you already know the name of the fabric, you might be able to find some information on it, but you’re probably setting your self up for some sort of goose chase. Most likely the wild kind.
So, with my general knowledge, and what I could scrape together from the internet, I present a basic understanding of fibers and fabrics.
First off, there are three basic categories of fibers: Natural, Artificial and Synthetic.
Natural fibers can be further categorized into animal or vegetable fibers.
Animal fibers include:
Wool (fleece or hair from animals, primarily sheep)
Silk (produced by the silk worm)
Vegetable fibers are usually from plants of the same name. Like:
Cotton
Bamboo
Hemp
Jute
Linen (flax)
Natural fibers are usually the most prized, though most cotton is pretty cheap, I guess cause its so easy to cultivate. They have great breathability, drape well, and look classier than other fibers. When set on fire they burn to ash. They are biodegradable, and can be organically made. The drawbacks to them are that they shrink, wrinkle easily, and generally require a bit more attention and care. (A.k.a. dry cleaning).
Artificial Fibers are chemically altered versions of natural fibers. (At work I call them Frankenstein fibers.) They usually imitate the look and feel of natural fibers, but aren’t as durable. The first artificial fiber was created in the late 1800s. The list includes:
Viscose
Rayon
Acetate
Modal
Tencel
There are a lot more, but these are the only ones I’ve seen in abundance. These fabrics breathe well, drape well, but like I said before, aren’t as strong or elastic as naturals. They don’t retain heat, so they’re nice here in sunny Fla, but I’ve had some customers complain that they “cling” to their bodies (Showing off unwanted panty lines.)
Synthetic fibers are probably the most versatile and inexpensive fibers on the market. Nylon was the first ever synthetic fiber manufactured. It was born in the United States in the 1930s (U-S-A! U-S-A!) Followers include, but are not limited to:
Polyester
Nylon
Acrylic
Olefin
Spandex
Synthetics are all manufactured to behave differently, so there aren’t really many set characteristics. However they typically don’t shrink, they are wrinkle and wear resistant, they retain heat and don’t breathe well, and they either melt when burned, or don’t burn at all. The ones that melt can be handy sometimes, because, you can run a lighter along the edge to keep the fabric from fraying. (Disclaimer: my husband is a lawyer, so if you burn yourself doing that, don’t sue me!) But burn at your own risk! Like an anonymous poster mentioned to one of my earlier posts, synthetic fabrics can cause severe burns if you get caught on fire while wearing them, because they melt onto your skin and trap heat until they are surgically removed. This just reinforces one of my strong beliefs that you should BE CAREFUL AROUND FIRE!
To make things even more confusing, these fibers can be woven, knitted, or compressed into different types of cloths. This is what determines how fabrics are sorted in the stores.
The most popular type of fabric is woven. this is when the fibers are spun into “yarns” and are woven over and under each other, like a basket. The warp and the weft are the two main directions the yarns go.

The warp goes lengthwise, (and determines how many yards you’re getting). it also decides the grain line. The weft goes widthwise, and usually has more stretch than the warp. It also creates the selvege of the fabric.
There are three types of woven fabrics: plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave.
Plain weave is just that. over under over under. common fabrics include taffeta, plain cotton, chiffon, organza, poplin, lame, seersucker, batiste, chambray, flannel, corduroy, etc. If the fabric makes little crosses, it’s a plain weave.
Twill weave is made from skipping a few warp/weft fibers. The yarns make a diagonal pattern. Fabrics with twill weave include denim, twill, chino, drill cloth, tweed and gabardine.
(Fun fact: gabardine was invented by the guy who founded Burberry)
Satin weaves make a shiny looking fabric, by putting more warp fibers over more weft fibers. The only satin weave fabrics I’m really familiar with are satin and charmeuse. If a cotton fabric has a satin weave, for some reason it’s called sateen.
There are some special weaves that make fabrics like brocades and jacquards, something about shuttle weaving, where they weave the fabric and then create a secondary design. Then there are special techniques used to make velvet and tapestry, but I’m not too familiar with them. The important thing to know about these special fabrics is that in most situations they are VERY delicate, and need special care when working with them.
Knits are another very common fabric, mostly used to make sportswear and street wear. Knits have stretch without needing spandex. I think knits are good for beginners because even if you mess up a little bit, they will stretch over your body and disguise most flaws. There are several different techniques. I know some, but if you want to get a better idea of different kinds, ask someone who knits or crochets.
Interlock is most commonly used for t-shirts. Ribbed knit is what most t-shirts have on the collar and the cuffs.
Double knit fabrics, like ponte, aren’t as stretchy, but they are durable. I think this is the fabric most polo shirts are made of.
Tricot (tree-co) is an interesting knit, because it uses three strands of yarn to create a triangular shaped knit. I’ve only seen it as cheap Halloween knits. they’re hella stretchy, but will break whatever screen print is on it.
Non-woven fabrics are made by compressing and heating a tangled mess of fibers until they fuse. Fleece and felt are the two primary forms of non-woven fabric, but it does appear in many forms. Like American currency! Dollars are made from a blend of cotton and linen, which is why they last so long, even after getting crumpled and soaked.
Hopefully this is helpful, even with my limited formal education on fabric. The best way to learn more about it is to touch it. Feel it, move it, wrap it around your arm to test it’s breathability. Get acquainted. Also, don’t be afraid to ask questions about it. Most of the people who work at the store would love to help you. If they don’t, find someone else. Fabric is a niche market. Most people who work in the store work there because they are interested in it and would love to show you just how smart they are.
Go forth and sew!
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